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Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai’s fabulous Street Food Market – Ramadan Special

May 24, 2020 by manjirichitnis Leave a Comment

Streets in Mumbai are empty and Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai’s usually busy Ramadan festive street food market is shut during the lockdown

Ramadan (Ramzan) this year was a very different experience for the millions worldwide observing the almost month-long fast and so will Eid. And for all the fans of the festive street food of Mohammed Ali Road, this year has been a major disappointment. For the first time in the history of its existence, this bustling street lies silent and bare during Ramadan.

Mumbai’s Mohammed Ali Road, with its burgeoning street food market that is at its best during the holy month of Ramadan, is well-known for its brilliant food and desserts. Myriad food stalls serving hundreds of mouth-watering meat dishes, biryanis and a mind-boggling variety of desserts operate out of this small street every year.

Tempting desserts on display at the  Street Food market at Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan
Desserts at a street food stall – Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan

This market which originated decades ago with just a handful of stalls dotting the periphery of Minara Masjid is now a popular tourist attraction. During Ramadan, it attracts a huge crowd, all eager to feast on the delicacies. Irrespective of religion, caste, or creed, this massive vibrant market embraces everyone with its offerings. Though I do not belong to the Muslim community, I have been a regular visitor at this market for the past many years and have always celebrated Eid with some of my close friends. My college buddy M and his pal A, never miss a chance to eat the special festive food during Ramadan at Mohammad Ali Road and it was with them that I went on a very enjoyable guided tour of sorts, a few years ago. The experience had me become a tourist in my own city, camera phone in hand, takes notes, reliving old memories.

Vibrant, colourful and bustling - Street Food market at Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan

Scores of people from neighbouring cities and eager tourists throng this street, queuing up to enjoy the food. For some tourists this is also a time for doing some celeb-spotting as many of Mumbai’s famous Bollywood stars are a huge fan of the food too.

The famous Bade Miya also has a pop-up stall at Mohammed Ali Road during Ramadan.

Khansamas especially travel from places across India, especially Lucknow and Madhya Pradesh to Mumbai – Muhammad Ali Road for this month to create their magical dishes for the hungry crowds.

Malpua and huge kadhai's for frying set up specially for the Ramadan Street Food market at Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai
Malpua – a dessert – at a street food stall – Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan

MUST-HAVE IFTAAR DISHES AT MOHAMMED ALI ROAD, MUMBAI

Biryani, Tandoori meat and tandoor naans, kebabs, soft rumali rotis, shawarmas, mutton and chicken curries are just some of the tempting delicacies that are on offer to satisfy any and every craving. Slow-cooked nalli nihari with a soft roomali roti is an unbeatable combination. For many of my friends, Haleem is the ultimate comfort-food meets meaty delight dish and what better way to enjoy this than at the end of a long day of fasting?

Massive Biryani Handi at a street food stall – Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan

And though it might seem surprising to some, there are some fantastic offal dishes on offer. I for one would highly recommend Zaban soup, Zaban fry, kaleji Tawa fry, and the piece de resistance – Bheja Fry. Other melt-in-your-mouth offal dishes include the ‘mutton Khiri kebab’ and the ‘mutton kaleji. The sooty aroma of meat skewered on hot charcoal and Rotis slapped onto massive tandoors lingers heavy in the air, tempting your senses to keep indulging.

Delicious fiery Zaban Soup – Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan

When I moved to the U.K, I was quite surprised by how unpopular offal was amongst the common people. Over the years, though I have seen it rise in popularity, especially as celebrity chefs flaunt their fancy creations on television cookery shows and social media. When I started writing my food and travel blog back in 2012 (I began blogging in 2006 with a lifestyle blog) I had no idea I would be embarking on such an exciting journey. Through the course of my blogging and then freelance content creation, I embarked on a journey as a freelance Marketing, PR and social media professional. I have been blessed with some amazing friendships that have truly blossomed over the years. I have cooked alongside Michelin star chefs. Celebrity chefs, in five-star kitchens and been on the set of the Saturday Kitchen Live. I have sampled some brilliant food and been to some fabulous cookery demonstrations. Even while travelling I have been invited to sample great food and wine, enjoyed some beautifully curated food walks in exotic locales and met some deeply knowledgeable and talented chefs and travel writers. But I digress so now back to reminiscing about Mohammed Ali Road and the fabulous food enjoyed during Ramadan.

Bheja Fry – Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai during Ramadan

There are some incredibly special delicacies that are only sold during this period which you will not see on restaurant or street food stall menus otherwise. Breaking the evening fast by eating the food here is a great way to enjoy iftar.

Dessert choices include the famous malpua – deep-fried golden goodness to devour after a meat fiesta. But one must not miss out on the dark and delightful Burhanpur ki mawa jalebi. This dark jalebi-like dessert is made from deep-fried khoya and then dunked into a sugary syrup.

If you are after something milder then pick from one of the many tempting flavours of phirni set in small earthen pots, topped with dry fruits. The iconic Suleman Usman Mithaiwala is just below the Minara Masjid and is a hugely popular sweet shop, frequented by people all year round. Personally, I always start the dessert feasting with the sandal, the appearance of steamed idli, and the taste of a milky coconut sweet and then head onto a thick coconut cream milkshake loaded with a thick layer of dry fruits.

As a young adult, growing up in Mumbai, I was always surrounded by friends and family who are equally passionate about food. During any Indian festival, waves of nostalgia transport me back to Mumbai, when many an evening was spent listening to them share memories and experiences about the rich traditions surrounding food.

Friends regaled us with takes about the grand celebrations during Eid and the holy month of Ramadan. Such epic tales of food and celebrations, from their families, of generations past, are inter-woven into the tapestry of my soul for life.

I am writing this today after browsing through old photo albums on my laptop dating back several years. This has brought back so many memories, of enjoying the most brilliant food with my friends for epic Iftar parties, of foodie gifts shared by neighbours and friends with us over the years and of my many trips to Mohammed Ali Road to relish amazing food during Ramadan.

The flavours and aromas wafting through the area are something that I can never forget. I just close my eyes and pretend am back there with my friends, feasting and just being a part of this beautiful tradition.

To all my Muslim friends, and everyone celebrating, I wish you a safe and happy Eid. It cannot be the same this year due to the pandemic that has brought the world to its knees. But this does not dampen the spirit of celebration and the auspicious traditions of Eid.

Our entire Human race together shall get through this. We will emerge on the other side of this lockdown.

We will again someday soon greet each other with warm hugs.

We shall share our favourite food cooked with love and joy.

Together – we will defeat this invisible enemy.

Eid Mubarak to one and all.

Markets, Bazaars, Khau-Gallis, street food – Vibrant and bustling and full of colour and local flavours. I have always been fascinated by them and make sure that whenever I travel back to India, I go and refresh my memories. I also make it a point to visit local markets whenever I travel.

Take a virtual tour of some of my favourite markets:

  • Borough Market, London
  • Portobello Market, Notting Hill, London
  • London Bridge and the surrounding area
  • Food walking tour, New York

Filed Under: India, Travel

Tulshi Baug and Mandai, a window into Pune’s vibrant Vintage Market

May 1, 2020 by manjirichitnis Leave a Comment

Growing I remember tagging along with my mum for her weekly fresh grocery shop. I was rewarded with an eclair for helping her carry one of the many beautiful hand-made cloth bags home, full of fresh fruit.

Mandai, Pune

The market was all busy, buzzing with activity, lots of vendors with their hand carts full of produce. Most of them regulars and many knew their regular customers by name too. My favourite was always the elderly lady who sold fresh curry leaves, fragrant coriander leaves and green chillies. Her tiny frame also hidden behind the piles of green.

Tulshi Baugh and Mandai, a vibrant Kaleidoscope of Pune’s Vintage Market, sits huddled in between modern buildings, dusty by-lanes. It is always busy with throngs of people milling about, weaving their way through traffic and stray cows chewing cud on the road and stray dogs chilling by the foothpath. Pedestrtians determined to reach their favourite shops muscle their way through vehicles with auto-rickshaws honking incessantly at no-one in particular and huge privately owned cars with windows rolled up driven by goon-like private hire drivers ferry their masters and mistresses to get their fix of their favourite food or drink or simply to visit the famous temple nearby.

Shri Ramji Sansthan Temple

Somehow on these same roads, dusty public buses offer a cheaper transport alternative to the common men and women who’s daily income does not afford them the same creature comforts as the nouveau riche or the Khandani- Ameer (rich by inheritence crowd) or the modern middle-class crowd that works for their money and picks an uber-ride or a zips around on gearless scooters that actually rule the roads in Pune city. Oh yes, Pune city is completely over-run by reckless motorbike and scooter riders who are absolute speed demons and zip across the lenghth and breadth of the city without a helmet and even protest when they are asked to pay a fine for not caring for their own personal safety. Don’t believe it, well, at your own peril then, for not very long ago, I was one such rider (though I did always wear a helmet and followed the rules) Oh how I miss my beautiful gearless scooter my Honda Activa, it gave me wings – litreally!

But I digress, we must come back to talking about the beautiful market that is Mandai and the gorgeous Ram Mandir. This 18th century temple was built by Shri Naro Appaji Khire in what used to be a huge tulshi garden literally translating into a garden where the holy basil grew. At the time, the building was the tallest spire in the city of Pune. There is a spacious wooden congraration hall right outside the temple and many smaller shrines around the main temple (have a look at the photo below).

The temple and the surrounding market is steeped in history and has seen stalwarts like freedom fight Lokamya Tilak and other emiment members of society frequent the area in the pre-indpenedance times.

Tulshibaug

The inner courtyard market right outside the temple has many shops whcih are probably as old as the temple itself. They sell jewellery, various utensils and also all sizes of sculptures and framed pictures of various dieties.

Right outside the courtyard are shops selling many different things including two of my absolute favurites, toy kitchen utensils and toy kitchen sets and Glass bangles. Other shops sell cotton bedding, shoes, bindis and imitation jewellery.

I am low-key obsessed wih Bangles and glass bangles have this beautiful retro feel and for me they transport me to a forgotten era. To adorn a wrist-full of delicate glass bangles and dress in a Traditional cotton sari gives me an etheral experience as if I was in a stage play or period drama. That is why I love these beautiful glass bangles shop in Tulshi Baug. All those shiny bangles are so pretty.

I hope that someday I can visit the bangle market in Hyderabad to see the famous bangle market and buy loads of bangles made from lakh clay.

Once you step outside into the streets from the temples inner sanctum there is a very busy market selling everything imaginable. It is home to several hundred shops and probably as many street side vendors. Nestled very close to the Vishrambaug Wneada, this histroic 18th centruy temple and market area is a stone’s throw away from an equally famous and histroic fruit and vegetable market – Mandai.

Mahatma Phule Mandai

The current indoor area of Mandi is housed in a Britosh era Gothic style building and the architecture is to be admired. It houses a busy market which spills over into the streets outside with hundreds of hand carts and shops selling every possible fruit and vegetable that you would expect to find and even some exotic ”foreign” vegetables.

In the 70’s this market would attract vendors who trade and purchase from the wholesale vegetable on a dialy basis and then transport their purchases in bullock carts to various part sof the city and adjoining smaller towns too. Now it mainly houses retail vendors who sell to the general public.

This market is home to shops that sell lots from than just fruits and vegetabes though. You can shops for spices, pulses, stainless utensils, wicker baskets, ceramic pots and pans, popaddams, peanuts and so much more. Lots of Mithai shops dot the outside lanes alongwith lots of famous old resturants that are popular with tourists and locals alike.

No trip to Pune is complete without exploring these historic market places and soaking up the vibrant atmosphere. Hopefully, I will soon be able to explore the local food and walk around and explore the oldest resturants that dot this and the surroudning area.

Love browsing markets as much as I do? Why not have a virtual gander through various markets across the world by checking out my blog posts below:

  • Borough Market, London
  • Portobello Market, Notting Hill, London
  • Mohammed Ali Road Street Food Market, Ramadan Special, Mumbai
  • London Bridge and the surrounding area

*Not sponsored. As always all opinions are always my own. Unless otherwise stated all photographs are clicked and processed by me. Kindly do not replicate any text and/or images/photographs from this post or my website without my express written constent.

Filed Under: India, Travel

Eco-camping at Panchgani, India

June 23, 2013 by manjirichitnis 11 Comments

Escape the Urban Jungle, go adventure eco-camping at Panchgani

How and why we decided to go Eco-camping at Panchgani – It was in December of 2010 that my two closest girlfriends and I decided that we should travel together to someplace cool,  to mark the end of an era and celebrate my fresh start. I had resigned from my full-time job in vibrant Mumbai and was joining my husband in London, taking a dive into the unknown – a plunge of faith so to speak. Though our family and friends suggested exotic locations, we picked eco–camping at Panchangi, which now looking back I feel was the best decision ever!

Barbecue Time at Eco Camp,Panchgani

Eco-camping at Panchgani

Camping at Eco Camps, Panchgani was the last thing the old me would have done, but I am so glad my friend P chose the place and helped me get over my long-time silly fear of doing anything remotely adventurous. The barbecue that night was thanks to S and her skills. We were very close friends, to begin with and bonded, even more, that night over hot kebabs. Waking up to see lush green mountains and see a beautiful valley wake up with us was something I shall never forget. The river Krishna flows near Panchgani and the Dhom lake near the village of Wai can be seen from the Eco Camp Site.

Strawberries and cream at Panchgani

We walked into the village and found a quaint old shop that had some strawberries and cream, the street is dotted with street vendors selling strawberries by the dozen and fresh carrots. My mother-in-law went to Kimmin’s Boarding School and Panchgani and we walked to the road where the school is, the quaint old red and cream brick building was enough to take me back in time, on a nostalgia trip to my school in Mumbai, the beautiful stone grey building, the carefree school days, we grow up too quickly don’t we?

Oh and please do get some of these heart-shaped biscuits from this bakery – ROACH, I do have a picture of me posing with the sugar-coated biscuit but err it’s not going up here 😉

Barbeque under the stars at the eco-camp in Panchgani

It was also the first time ever I was part of a barbecue, we walked into the village at night, found a lady who gave us some deliciously marinated cottage cheese and peppers and shallots and we had some kind neighbours in the tent next door who lent us some hot coals to get the barbie going.

It was a clear night and the brilliant stars seemed to sparkle just to make us girls smile …

Lying down on the grass on a thin sheet and watching the stars, feeling the pleasant chill on our face, it’s nothing like anything I had ever done.

Fast forward to life in London and with a desire to finally get the travel bit of my blog going I wanted to complete the drafts of so many posts but I am so glad I decided to start with writing about Eco Camps at Panchgani. Megan and Andre have been kind to send me answers to my many questions on email. I hope that all those who are looking some great weekend fun drive down to Panchgani the first weekend possible and stay in one of the tents; this is an experience not to be missed. Proximity to Mumbai and Pune are great pluses. Of course, anyone planning an India vacation in Dec- Feb must stay here and give paragliding a go, make your holiday memorable and experience nature’s beauty, nestled so close to the maddening hustle bustle of two big cities – Mumbai and Pune. It’s almost like, well, a secret escape, something so bohemian about the whole experience!

Megan and Andre, you are an inspiration for those taking a plunge, a leap of faith, raring to follow their dreams, so thank you for being such brave achievers.

Eco-camping at Panchgani, interview with the owners by Manjiri of www.travelsfortaste.com

Interview with Megan and Andre who have created and manage the eco-camping site at Panchgani

Me: Why did you choose Panchgani?

Megan & Andre: Andre and I had decided in 1997 that we wanted to move from cold Canada to India to raise our kids (who were then 4 and 1).We actually wanted to live in Goa, as  I first met Andre while on holiday in Goa. We dreamt of having houseboats on the river, but after researching a bit we found that it was hard to get permissions and there was too much barge traffic there. My parents told us to go to Panchgani as we already had a family house on land that my grandfather bought in 1922. So we said we’d give Panchgani a try.

 Me: What inspired you and your husband to start this venture?

Megan & Andre: We wanted to start our own venture, passion, and a desire to follow our heart got us here.

Me: Are there opportunities for adventure sports at Eco Camps?

Megan & Andre: Para gliders with their own equipment converge here from dozens of different countries to practise their flying from Dec to Feb every year. Other adventures to be had in the area is a trek down to the Krishna river, a short one up to the peaceful side of the otherwise crowded tableland, forest walks, and visits to waterfalls in the rains. There is also a lovely sunset from the camp. ( Oh Yes, I can so vouch for that!)

When practising an adventure sport they must get adequate training and stay safe.

some interesting facts about Panchgani

Me: Do share one of your favourite memories associated with Eco Camps

Megan & Andre: One favourite memory is having a different meal every day of the week from a different part of the world. This was in the early days when the paragliding guests came in smaller numbers and we used to invite them into our home for dinner most nights and each one took turns cooking.

(How very amazing is that, imagine a room full of guests from different places on this planet together , eating good food, laughing, sharing their life with each other !)

Me: Do your kids love what you do?

Megan & Andre: Our kids love what we do, and have learnt that turning what you love into an occupation is the way to go. Matthew, now 20 is in training to be a chef, and Arianne 17 wants to be a recreational therapist. Mikey who is 6, still wants to be a fire-fighter -Maybe because of the annual forest fire that comes up our slope every year. This is the one downside to living on the edge in Panchgani, when in the hot, dry summer, all the foliage is burnt by fires coming up from the villages below, burning all things including insects, birds, small animals and saplings in its wake. But we are now used to the annual burning. The fire does remain our biggest challenge but we do concentrate on all the other positive elements of life in this hill station.

Me: What are the facilities associated with staying at Eco Camp?

Megan & Andre: we have 4 large tents with toilets, a few smaller ones and 2 bungalows, 24hr water, hot water, drinking water. Food is delivered or you could use the kitchens. We have no service, but a fantastic view, some old trees, and amazing birdlife all around us. It is a 10 min walk into town, but at the same time secluded and quiet.

Touristy things to do while in Panchgani

Meet Megan and Andre – Entrepreneurs behind the eco-camping at Panchgani

Me: How do you manage to keep the place so well maintained yet affordable?

Megan & Andre: The rates are affordable because we don’t have waiters running around and our focus is not on minting money. We get by ok and are quite satisfied with the number of people who come. We don’t have managers or cooks to worry about either. The staff who we do have is happy people who have worked here for years.

Me: Any message for young entrepreneurs looking to start out on their own and follow their passion like you did?

Megan & Andre: Young people ought to follow their hearts to do what excites them, keeping the practical side of things in mind as well.

 Me: When is peak tourist season?

Megan & Andre: Peak season is from Dec to Feb and April – May Apart from those months, weekends are quickly booked, but weeks are free-ish.

Me: Anything you wish you had done differently?

Megan: I wish I had paid better attention in my Marathi classes in school. i suffer from not being able to ably communicate my thoughts to the locals.

Me: What DRIVES you to follow your dreams and passion and survive the inevitable challenges one faces whilst running their own venture?

Megan: My husband and kids, the beauty of our surroundings and the thrill of living at the mercy of the elements are the biggest incentives to continue living and working here. Ever since Andre could manage the running of the camp and got accustomed to local ways, I began teaching French part-time at New Era next door. It keeps me in touch with what I studied for years to eventually do.

Me: How does one book a stay at the eco camp?

Megan: To book a stay at Eco Camp call Megan at +91-9960436352, more info on our FB group “Eco-camp panchgani“

The photos below are from a magical time in my life, I so wish sometimes I could open some door and go back and relive those days.

Happy Weekend peeps and when you go to Eco Camps, please do share your experiences with me!

Stunning views of the Krishna Valley from the eco-camp site at Panchgani

Breath taking view from Eco Camp site

Breathtaking view of the Lake Dhom from the Eco Campsite at Panchgani

Lake Dhom from the Eco Camp site
A typical Tent at Eco Camps - Panchgani
A typical Tent at Eco Camps – Panchgani
Beautiful Sun Set from Eco Camps at Panchgani
Barbecue Time at Eco Camp,Panchgani

Local attractions are a short walk away from the eco-campsite at Panchgani

A retailers delight,Colour Blocking at a local shop in Panchgani!
Kimmins High School,Panchgani
ROACH Bakery
Strawberries and Cream!

Explore nature trails when eco-camping at Panchangi

Path leading to the campsite
View of the Village below
Panchgani is beautiful !

Thank you to my friend Payoshni for letting me use her lovely photographs for this post,  All information in this blog relating to Panchgani is sourced from here – please click on the hyperlink 🙂

Any comments? Please post below or tweet me at @manjirichitnis and hey join in the fun on my Facebook page

Looking for Travel Inspiration? Have a browse through my other travel posts too!

  • Plan your visit to the Tulip Gardens at Keukenhof
  • Enjoy an evening tasting the best local cheese and wine
  • Top 5 fun things to do in Amsterdam
  • Steigenberger Hotel, Schipol – a review of my stay
  • Best local wine bar in Venice
  • Hotel Al Ponte Mocenigo, Venice – a review
  • Fantastic Finland – Top 10 – To-Do list while Akaslompolo, Lapland
  • Helsinki Plus Apartment Kallio in Finland – Overnight stay review
  • Stay in a private log cabin in Finnish Lapland at an Eco-friendly backpacker’s hostel called the 7 Fells
  • How to plan a short break to Prague and Vienna
  • Washington D.C – U.S.A – Air BnB Stay review
  • A week in North Wales – Part 1 – in and around Holyhead
  • A week in North Wales – Part 2 – Southstack Lighthouse and Cemaes Bay
  • Family days out – Top 5 spots around London
  • Summer trek along River Wey, Surrey, England
  • Denby’s Vineyard, Dorking, Surrey, England

TAKE A VIRTUAL TOUR OF SOME OF MY FAVOURITE MARKETS ACROSS THE WORLD

  • Borough Market, London
  • Vibrant street market in Angel, North London
  • Portobello Market, Notting Hill, London
  • London Bridge and the surrounding area
  • Food walking tour – SOHO, London with Scratch tours
  • Food walking tour – New York City, U.S.A
  • Mohammed Ali Road, Ramadan food tour, Mumbai, India

Filed Under: Featured Travel Adventures, India, Travel Tagged With: Adventure sports near Mumbai, Adverture, Barbecue, Boarding School in Panchgani, Deccan PLateau, Dhom Dam, Easy to reach weekend spots near Mumbai and Pune, Eco Camping, escape the urban jungle of Mumbai and Pune, Exciting weekend getaway near Mumbai, Fresh baby carrots, friendship, India, Krishna River, Lake Dhom, Lonavla, London based food and travel blogger, maharashtra, Mapro Garden at Panchgani, Panchgani, Para gliding in India, Passion, peak tourist season, Pune, Satara, Strawberry Jam, Strawberry Market Panchgani, Table Land, take a break, Things to do at Panchgani, Tourist Spots at Panchgani, touristy spots near panchgani, travel, travel blogging, Valley View, Wai, wander lust

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